Through the tunnel at last

Thursday 3^rd September 2020

Up early, and we cast off and got under way at about 7am. The effort we had made yesterday in the rain now paid off, and we cruised down to the mouth of the tunnel with no problems, getting there right on 7:30.

Waiting on the tunnel mooring

On the way in

As it turned out we were the first to arrive, and we pulled forward on the mooring until we were at the tunnel entrance. A number of boats rolled up over the next half hour, about half a dozen or so. Eventually the tunnel keeper showed up, initially at a cabin on the other side of the canal, where he had a cup of tea and a cigarette before coming across a bridge. It was just after eight by then – he told us that he was about to be replaced by volunteers, so I suppose that he had no incentive to deliver customer care. Anyway he let himself into a door by the tunnel, and then emerged in a small craft which is used if anyone breaks down inside. After that he checked that we all knew the procedures, and we were free to proceed.

I was leading the convoy, which was slightly worrying, but we had to make a tricky turn to get into the tunnel mouth from the mooring, which took some time. That meant the boats were fairly well spaced out, and I did not feel I was under any pressure. Last time we went through, two years ago, I scraped the upper corners of our superstructure quite badly – the tunnel profile changes sharply several times, which makes it tricky. Perhaps I was going too fast then, so today I took it at not much above tickover, and I got all the way through without touching at all, except on the wooden rubbing beam where it narrows at the exit. The time didn’t seem much longer than on our previous trip, maybe a minute or two more in forty minutes overall.

On the way out of the tunnel, looking much more relaxed

Nice to be on the way again

It was raining, though not hard, and we pressed on towards Stoke – we were keen to reach Stone at least, to visit the M&S foodhall there and pick up supper. Loulie navigated for a few miles while I went below and had a shower – I had skipped that this morning to save time and get us under way quickly. About four miles after leaving the tunnel, in the centre of Stoke, we came to the first lock, and so began the long descent towards Shardlow. The Trent and Mersey Canal is one big humpbacked hill. From the tiny stoplock at Dutton it climbs through Middlewich and Sandbach, then up the 26 locks of the Cheshire Flight to the top pound at Kidsgrove. That runs through the Harecastle Tunnel and on to Stoke, and from that point it is all down hill to the eventual end at Shardlow and out onto the Trent.

There are five locks in Stoke, and then another fairly long pound as you leave southwards, past the Britannia Stadium. After the solitary lock at Trentham we stopped to give the dogs a very late breakfast, and then on to Stone. There are four locks in the Meaford (“meffud”) flight and then four more in Stone itself. This is a much more attractive town than Stoke – although it has a lot of industrial buildings, they are mostly 200 years old, from the heyday of the canals. Below the bottom lock we stopped on the water point and I topped up, because you always should, while Loulie went shopping.

On the waterpoint in Stone

We pressed on a couple of miles more after Stone, going down the solitary Aston lock. A little beyond that we found a very nice rural mooring near the tiny village of Burston. Across the fields on the other side of the canal there was a large but nicely proportioned Georgian farmhouse, and apart from that we were on our own. As we were sitting down before supper we were started by a knocking on the cabin window, which was on the off (canal) side of the boat. It turned out to be a swan, looking for bread, which we gave it. I assume that it has learned that knocking on boat windows has a good chance of producing food.

Mooring at Burston

TODAY: 10:45 HOURS. 19.3 MILES. 15 LOCKS.

Voyage: 26:10 HOURS. 50.1 MILES. 33 LOCKS.

 

A Long-Expected Return

 

Wednesday 8^th July 2020

We made a slightly earlier start today, and set off through Wincham and Anderton. Home waters, and a voyage only notable for being so much later than we had expected. As always this part of the trip is dominated by the timings through the tunnels, and we reached Saltersford in time to go through at noon. I dropped Loulie and the dogs off at the other side, so that she could give them a good walk, and we timed things nicely to go through Preston Brook at two.

Following our normal routine we moored up close to Keckwick Lane to walk the dogs home, and then bring the car up and unload. Later in the evening I went back up and took Eileen up to the winding hole, and back to the marina. Another boat turned in (from the Runcorn direction) just before me, Rock and Roll, and it turned out that they are moored right next to us, on the next pier, so I had a tricky little manoeuvre to reverse in past them and the boat on our pier ahead of us. I did it very nicely, to the point that the guy on Rock and Roll complimented me on how smooth it had been. I remember two years ago how I stressed about getting in, but plenty of practice and experience has given me more confidence. He also asked if we had been away on a long tour, but I explained how we had been trapped in Nantwich by the lockdown.

 

Mabel Seaman Secker resting

TODAY: 9:30 HOURS. 17.6 MILES. 1 LOCK.

Voyage: 18:20 HOURS. 35.3 MILES. 9 LOCKS.

Closing the loop

Sunday 4^th August

And so we come to the final leg of the circuit, on the fourteenth day of the trip. This was over familiar waters, through the remote countryside between Middlewich and Northwich, and then round the latter town, through Wincham, Marston, Anderton and Barnton. The main point of interest is the time we will hit the Saltersford tunnel, because there’s a window of only twenty minutes in each hour that you can set off north. I had some idea we might get there for the 13:00 sailing, but that started to look infeasible, which was a good thing really, as it meant we could take things easy.

Nearly Home

Thin House at Anderton

As we went through Wincham we passed a group of youngish people (by comparison with the average canal population) on the bank next to three plastic cruisers (GRP – Glass Reinforced Plastic) or margarine tubs as they are known to those of us sailing something more solid. Much later, after we had gone through the Saltersford Tunnel, they came up behind us very fast (gosh, perhaps ten knots or more). We pulled over to let them pass, which they did, though I think they could probably have slipped past regardless. When you are used to 57 foot and 17 tonnes of solid iron, these seem incredibly nimble – they are typically only about 20 foot or less, with an outboard motor – they can spin in their own length, accelerate instantly and manoeuvre with ease. They soon vanished up the canal ahead of us.

On Lookout

As usual we took two hours to go from Saltersford Tunnel to Preston Brook Tunnel, and when we arrived the Margarine Tub Club were waiting to go in – their extra speed hadn’t enabled them to get an hour ahead of us. The stop lock was tough to work, because the Trent and Mersey was higher than usual, so even with the water overflowing the bottom gates, there was still a bit of a height difference at the top gate, which made it hard to move. I managed it in the end, and when they saw me there the GRP boaters came back to help.

In Preston Brook Tunnel

We followed them through the tunnel, and then as usual we went up to Keckwick Lane to drop off the dogs. I then winded and came back to the marina, where I moored very nicely – I am getting more confident with experience. I greased the stern gland and we unloaded into Loulie’s car and went home – tired but also sad it was over.

Map at 4-8-19 - the Ring complete

TODAY: 8:05 HOURS. 20.1 MILES. 1 LOCKS.

VOYAGE: 88:45 HOURS. 115.9 MILES. 92 LOCKS. 8 BRIDGES

Hitting the Peak

Thursday 25th July

As I mentioned yesterday, we wanted to call in at Dukinfield Junction to get a pumpout, so we only had a short run, about 45 minutes, after leaving our moorings, until we got the the junction, where the Ashton, the Peak Forest and the Huddersfield Narrow Canals all meet.

The Museum at Portland Basin

The start of the Peak Forest Canal at Portland Basin

The pumpout was at Portland Basin marina - Portland Basin is the place where the three canals meet. This was like no marina we have ever seen - it was down a narrow arm between brick walls - essentially just a short dead end of canal with some boats moored on it. We got a pumpout but they told us they didn't do water and we'd have to back to the museum in the Portland Basin. This we did, and we were directed to moor alongside two old boats. Having done that, the owner of the boats appeared and said he had been told not to allow people to do that, for insurance reasons. (As it happens I had slipped on some rotting wood on the gunwale of one of those boats and scraped my shin, so I had some sympathy).

He was in fact very helpful, and apologetic, and he helped us moor with our bow in alongside one of his boats, so I could get the hosepipe to our water inlet. With no further excitement we completed the watering and set off along the Peak Forest canal.

Starting down the Peak Forest

The difference was immediate. The canal travels along the valley of the Tame, which flows far below, and it is wooded in many places. There were no locks today, but a little bit of exercise for me as I had to work a lifting bridge - lifted manually with a windlass handle. It was a fiercely hot day and we were concerned for the dogs; Loulie kept putting wet towels on them and encouraging them to drink. We passed Hyde, and then in Romiley we stopped and I walked to a nearby Aldi to get ice lollies, drinks and some chicken for Minnie. The best bit was that the supermarket was air conditioned, very cold and lovely.

After that we didn't go on very far. We had exchanged the Tame for the Goyt, but again it was flowing far below us on the right hand side. After going though a tunnel (300 yards, very short by our usual standards) we found a mooring in the middle of nowhere, much more our style. We are only a few miles from Marple, but there is a flight of 16 locks to tackle before we get there. For today we moored quite early, about 16:15, and Loulie used her new washing machine for the first time. It is threatening to rain, and indeed we need the clouds to open to clear the air, but so far it is just occasional showers. If it doesn't break it will be a very muggy night.

Mooring near Hyde Bank Tunnel - including a view through the tunnel

TODAY: 6.15 HOURS. 8.2 MILES. 0 LOCKS. 1 BRIDGE.

VOYAGE: 26.25 HOURS. 37.2 MILES. 27 LOCKS. 2 BRIDGEs

Bringing Eileen Home

Eileen Dover has been at the Narrowboat Navigation Company in Nantwich since we dropped her off in January, having various bits of work done, and this week we finally got to go and pick her up. With the improved weather over the past few weeks we have been really missing the chance to get out on the water, so this was none too soon. It also struck us that this is exactly the same journey (same end points anyway) as the Home Run last summer, but with the Middlewich branch open now it was just two easy days cruising, rather than eight days hard labour.

We had been across a few times as the work progressed, but this was the first time we had seen her with everything done, and we are very pleased. The most obvious change is to the internal lights - we have had them all replaced with LED bulbs, which are much brighter and whiter, and which also use about a tenth of the current. In the saloon we have also had a lot more installed, six down each side of the glass roof, and we also had new lights installed under the galley cabinets, to illuminate the work surfaces. Those have made a major difference to the light at that end of the boat. We've had a new TV installed, slightly smaller than the old one but this one works through the internet rather than requiring an aerial on the roof, so that has gone.

The saloon with the new TV and lights

Although those are the most visible changes, the most important one is a full set of new leisure batteries, a bank of four, not only new but a much improved and modern type. These take and hold a much better charge, and the difference is immediately apparent. We no longer have to run the engine for hours after mooring, we just switch off when we stop. There is no weakening at all in the lights as the evening goes by - in the old days we'd sometimes have to turn the engine on because of the deepening gloom. The other major effect is the heating - this now comes on immediately when switched on - it needs a good battery charge to do this, and again last year we'd have to start the engine and rev it up in the morning in order to get the heat to come on.

There were lots of other things done too - the engine has been serviced, they have put sound insulation in the engine compartment, and they have fixed the problem with the bow thruster. I also have a little cup holder behind the stern rail to hold my teacup rather than having to leave it standing on the top of the rail.

We packed all our luggage and the dogs into my car and drove over to Nantwich on Tuesday afternoon - we were leaving my car there to be collected on Friday. After loading up we spent an hour filling up the water, and then set off. We didn't go too far, up the canal to Barbridge and then along the Middlewich branch for a bit, through one lock at Cholmondeston, and then we moored for the night, well out in the countryside.

A frosty morning near Cholmondeston

The dogs got me up at 6:30, but it was a beautiful if frosty morning, and I went back to bed for a couple of hours. We weren't in a pressing hurry, and we set off about half ten. Quite soon Loulie got off with the dogs to do her half hour run - she had to double back to avoid getting too far ahead, as she is doing at least twice the speed of the boat. We went through the remaining three locks on the branch and dropped into the Trent and Mersey at Kings Lock, where we filled up with diesel. Our local hire boat company, Claymoore, has closed down, so we need to be a bit more strategic about keeping fuelled up.

Helmswoman and assistant on the poop

We paused in Middlewich so I could do some work and have a Skype call with my boss, then we dropped down through the four locks and out of the town. We only went a couple of miles further - we were hoping to moor at Bramble Cuttings, but as usual there were other boats there before us, so we went just past to a spot which we have used before, where the Dane flows down a slope behind the towpath, and there is nobody around for miles, perfect for the dogs who could run up and down freely.

Resting

Secluded moorings near Bramble Cuttings

I was up again briefly at 6:30, another beautiful if cold morning, with a woodpecker drilling away in the trees across the canal. We set off again about half ten, but the journey today was not quite so leisurely. The tunnels at Saltersford and Preston Brook with their strict timetables impose a constraint - if you just miss a sailing you can waste nearly an hour waiting, and we wanted to get home with plenty of time to moor in daylight. We had to wait at the Barnton tunnel for a boat coming the other way, but we just made it to Saltersford at 14:15, so five minutes to spare. But that squeezed our time to get to Preston Brook, normally two hours, and again we just got there with five minutes to spare, after doing the stop lock at high speed.

We could relax now, and we went up towards Moore, winded and then dropped Loulie and the dogs at Keckwick Lane to walk home, our usual routine. When I got Eileen back to the marina we discovered that there had been a bit of shuffling on the piers, and our space on pier Q was too short to take us. We moored on the other side of the pier,and I have since spoken to them - we may stay in that spot but we also have the choice of a pier-end spot on M, which might be better. We're going to have a look at that soon.

A pile of Labradors

So all in all a nice little introduction to the cruising year, and we are very pleased with the changes we have made to Eileen. We have a couple of big holidays booked in the summer - our plans at present are to use one to get down to Chester and Ellesmere Port, and to do the Cheshire Ring in the other. We also intend to get as many weekends and short breaks as we can. The great benefit of owning our own boat is that we can do that at short notice, and depending on the weather. We can't wait.

Voyage: 18.1 hours. 36.3 miles. 9 locks.

Home stretch

Today was the final race for the line, after eight days and more than 100 miles. In fact it wasn’t really a race, more of a stroll, as this was the easiest day of the journey, with only one lock (and that one having a drop of about 4 inches). We were back in familiar waters too – we have sailed these stretches on most of the hire boat holidays we have taken in the past.

Morning on the Flashes

Safe from the puppy

After leaving the flashes we pottered through the countryside, past a couple of new marinas which has been built in the last couple of years. One of the nicest odours on the canal came next as we reached Roberts Bakery, and then Rudheath and the Old Broken Cross pub, a landmark on the network.

Lostock Works

Just beyond that we sailed right through the Lostock Soda Ash plant, now owned by Tata Chemicals, but part of ICI when I started work in Northwich. Wincham Wharf has a lot of boatbuilding facilities, but under a bridge and you are suddenly winding through the countryside. The Lion Salt Works at Marston is being restored, with a Real Ale festival under way as we passed, and then you pass through Marbury Country Park. Anderton is next, and as we approached a boat unexpectedly popped out of the boat lift, which is clearly back in operation.

Although there are no locks, the top end of the Trent and Mersey is dominated by tunnels. First is Barnton, where you have to creep up to the tunnel mouth until you can see if anyone is coming through. If they are – as was the case for us today – you hurriedly pull yourself over to the side out of the way until the boat pops out, then you go back and have another look.

Passing through this tunnel, which is about 500m long, you emerge into a strange pool before the next tunnel, with trees on one side, and grassy slopes leading up the houses in Barnton on the other. It feels very isolated, with just a few boats moored there, and the waiting points for the tunnels.

Saltersford tunnel is a little shorter, but you cannot see right through so it is controlled on a time basis. Northbound you can only enter between the hour and twenty past. Southbound it is half past to ten to the hour. This means there is a minimum ten minute buffer, which is enough for a boat to clear the tunnel comfortably.

After we had done the tunnel Loulie got off with the dogs for a walk, then we carried on to Dutton and the Preston Brook tunnel. The stop lock is nearly redundant – this year the water levels in the two canals are so close that you can open the gates without operating the sluices. This tunnel is much the longest of the three at nearly 1200m, and it also uses a timed operating system, though this time the window is only ten minutes after the hour or half hour, so there is a twenty minute buffer. Despite its length it is quite possible to see all the way through the tunnel.

Preston Brook Tunnel

Rather than turning up the Runcorn branch to the marina straight away we went up the main line, winded (turned) at Moore then came back to Keckwick Lane, where I dropped off Loulie and the dogs. This is only half a mile from our house, so Loulie could take the car to the marina ready to meet me there and take the luggage home.

Loulie steering

I entered the marina gingerly, and found our pier with Loulie’s help. I had to turn round then manoeuvre carefully in past other moored craft – and then we decided we were on the wrong side of the pier for our nominated berth, so I had to back her out and go in again on the other side. All of this was further hampered by a stiff breeze – Eileen is rather high-sided and the wind affects her significantly – and in the end I was quite happy with my first attempt at marina parking.

Home at last

We packed everything into the car, and it was off home for fish and chips. It has been a great week – although it was forced upon us by the Middlewich breach, I am really glad we had this first shake-down cruise. We have learned a lot about the boat and how to get the best out of her, and we have been getting better at it all week. We have some ideas about changes we will get done over the winter, but we will be spending a lot of time on board before then.

Today: 8.5 hours. 15.9 miles. 1 lock.

Voyage: 68 hours. 116.8 miles. 97 locks.